Friday, May 15, 2009

The Belizean Caribbean

After a pleasent bus ride from Punta Gorda to Placencia, we got our first tast of the Caribbean wonders.... white sands, warm blue waters, palm trees and wind. We stayed a couple of nights in Placencia. Unfortunately the place had developed a lot in the last four years and we found it pretty touristy although still laid back. We filled our time in with walks around the bay, swimming in the sea, drinking the Belikin beer and sampling the Garifuna culture and food.

If we thought Placencia was laid back, Hopkins, our next destination, was a mark behind the rest. This sleepy little town of maybe 1,000 people was a great little place. We stayed at the Drumming School, shown in the picture. Lessons were held in the shelter near the centre of the picture.

Our simple room opened onto the scene above. The place was run by a Canadian woman and her Belizean husband, so it had some of the comforts of the western world mixed in with some Belizean culture.

From our place the beach was a short stroll down the sandy path.

And once again we were greeted by the same scene we were introduced to in Placencia.

As our skin grew darker, our bellies grew rounder as we feasted on fruit, drank the Belizean beer and lazed our days away.

The serenity of it was delightful.

Even an old boot washed up on the shore looked weathered but peaceful.

In the evening we were invited to watch a performance of some local guys jamming out some sounds on the drums and shakers. But then it was time to move on.

We took a bus futher north up the coast line to Dangriga. From here we caught a tiny boat out to Tobacco Caye (Island). This island, as you can see in the picture, was pretty small. Walking from one side to the other took around 30 seconds. And this little slice of paradise was to be our home for the next 5 days.

We chose to stay at Lana's. Accomodation and 3 meals run by an 80 year old Belizean woman. As you would expect she was a great cook and we never went hungry. The picture shows the dock at Lana's looking back to our place.

Looking out to sea from the dock provided great views of the weather rolling in.

Every evening we finished the day with a couple of Belizean "1 Barrel" rums with lime and lemonade on the dock.

From here we watched the sea birds circling overhead....

The pelicans resting in the shallows....

or diving for fish....

the spotted eagle rays doing their evening swim past the dock....

the young ospray calling its parents for dinner.....

and the fiddler crabs waving their big pincher to attract a mate.

During the day we spent hours snorkling the local reef. There was lots to see including corals, ferns, coloured squid, conch, giant hermit crab, lobsters, poisonous cow fish, various rays, and all sorts of fish.

Ken got a conch....

Then got one of the locals to show him how to gut it....

The fresh flesh has a slight fresh scallop flavour and a texture slightly softer than paua.

We also gathered old fishing lines while snorkling and one evening threw our lines in when the fish were biting. Ken got a couple of snappers and I got a grunt. Very good eating. We gave them to Lana the next morning and she cooked them up to perfection for our lunch.

We spent lots of time hanging around in the hammocks. But before long it was time to leave.

We headed back to the mainland and after a night in Dangriga jumped on the bus out of town. Half way along the journey.... looking at all the hot land and tropical jungles.... we decided to head back to the coast. Taking the bus all the way north to Belize city, we boarded a boat to Caye Caulker. This island was several time bigger than Tobacco with a school and many shops and eateries.

The island still had its laid back feeling with sandy streets.

The cold beers and drinks were delivered from the town dock to the resturants, bar and shops via tractor.

Some of the bars were so close to the water... the tables were via "swimsuit access" only.

We stayed beach front in a little cabana (hut). The wind blowing furiously at the windows all night. Under the hut lived a few of these guys. The iguanas loved basking in the sun, but would scamper for shelter if anyone walked past.

Local resturants had lazy water front locations.

And the water looked just like in the pictures.

Fish, beans and rice, coldslaw and fried plantains was a staple garifuna style diet.

The sun shone and the sea beckoned but unfortunately all good things must come to an end.

So we took a final walk about the island and headed back to the mainland.

We stayed one night in Belize City, not as dangerous as perhaps it is made out to be, if you kept your wits about you. In the morning we took a cab to the airport and flew off in search of some £££. And so the UK job hunt began.


Thursday, May 14, 2009

Slices of Guatemalan Paradise

From Lanquin we took a shuttle north. A days worth of brake trouble made for an interesting trip. The pic below shows the car ferry we went on which was powered by two small outboards.

Further down the road we saw a lot of smoke billowing from the bush. We slowed a little to establish if we could pass or of this would be one more drama to add to the day. Turned out it was an organised burn off to clear land for crops.

The van dropped us in Santa Elena as a collective taxi drove past. Our driver waved them down and we ran from one van to the next. We drove off into the darkness to find El Remate.

We found a place recommended by some locals in Coban. It was the last room they had and it was Easter holidays so we took it.

In the morning we woke to a little slice of paradise. A little dock to sit or read or lie on, a clear blue lake to swim in and days of bright blue skies.

A dug out canoe peacefully waiting on the shoreline.

Beautiful sunsets watched over a cool beer.

The days however, were stifling. Some of the hottest weather I've been in, reaching 40 deg C. I struggled to eat in the heat and spent most of the time in the lake.

After a day of rest we took the 5am shuttle to Tikal National Park; one of the largest archaeological sites of the Mayan civilisation (a world heritage site). On the road out there we saw the following signs:

Look out for Jaguars
Look out for Snakes
The park was basically a huge jungle with these pyramid temples sticking out above the skyline and other ruins scattered about. We were there just before sunrise, but missed it due to too much cloud. This turned out to be a good thing as it kept temperatures bearable til 10am.

If you look carefully at the next picture you will see Ken standing in the square window near the top. Gives you a feel for the size of these monstrosities.

And this one shows the steep stairs we had to climb to get up them.

The views from the top were surreal.

These ruins were pretty impressive

Ken taking a breather

Irresistable vine swinging.

I took the time for some yoga at the top of one of them.

We also saw a few animals, including this one which we dont know the name of because the locals could only tell us in Spanish...

More ruins in a jungle setting

And we did some bird watching, spying woodie pecking holes in the tree for bugs.

A few days later we headed south again to Rio Dulce (a town on the river Dulce). From here we took a day trip on the local collectivo taxis to a jungle waterfall. This waterfall, shown in the picture, was sourced from a hot water spring, so the water falling is boiling hot. The hot water falls to a cold water river below, creating pockets of hot and cold water in the pool below. Behind the curtain of hot water is a natural sauna. We got there pretty early so had the place to ourselves. Had to share it with a snake though that banged into my arm while frantically swimming across the pool.

Back at Rio Dulce, we visited a castle equipt with canons, a dungoen, a 1/2 moat and stunning views of the river. We spent the remainder of the day chilling by the water.

Next day we jumped on a boat and headed down the river toward Livingston, a port town only accessible by boat. The boat trip took us through attractive canyons and natural jungle.

We stopped the night at Finca Tatin, a small hideaway just off the river. Our room was up in the jungle in amongst the creatures of the night. Mosquito nets a must. I woke and was greeted by a massive spider waiting for me on the toilet paper.

We took a kayak out for a paddle on the water. Tropical jungle scenes all around.

The trees roots/branches reaching down to get water.

Beauty all around us.

The young locals in their wooden canoes showed us how it was done. This girl wouldnt have been more than 6 or 7 years old.

Our Guatemalan experience ended at Livingston. We stayed one night to save up our memories and rest before taking starting out on our carribean adventure......